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You are 100% correct, however it is just in my nature to like things to be perfect. Like a scratch on your car that is hardly noticeable but you see it because you look at every time you walk past it ….

The one pictured is not the faulty connector, it is one of those style plugs. The faulty one is the one coming from behind the charging inlet (the top one), this was not replaced at any point with the component changeouts. I am not worried about what it does, I would just like it to function...

He says he is running 15/43 gearing, he must have modified the front sprocket cover to get the 15 on there.

The self bonding electrical tape is doing a good job of holding it, I would like it to be original though.

I have had to replace the battery and the powertrain, the other identical connectors come apart and go together easily, this one is the only issue.

I don’t think mine has a spring, it just flops around. Do you know if there is a way to pull these apart?

Does anyone know how to fix these connectors, 1 of mine has lost it’s rebound, for it to hold in the socket I have had to wrap it in self bonding electrical tape.

The facebook groups are the best place to look, I have seen similar issues on there, stark support have been good with diagnosis.

I got 166kph out of mine running 14/40 gearing which was too high, i'll get a 44t rear and try again.

I do struggle to believe that bike is running the production battery with that range, I ride similar terrain and can't get that range out of mine.

Has anyone had this fault? I have just replaced the motor, all wiring is fine, the coolant has been replaced, there is a noise coming from the pump but I can’t tell if it is pumping. Edit: Bleed the cooling system as per a pdf on the support section of the stark website, fault has cleared, bike...

Locked in motion, failed temp sensor according to stark. I am skeptical though, I was flat out, the motor was loaded up. However, these motors must have some thermal protection, a $50 rainwater pump does….when the new motor is fitted I will ride it the same way.

I had 2 pinholes in the front tube and 1 in the rear after the first ride. If I hadn't put tyre sealant in the tubes before the first ride it would have been a quick ride.

Are you sure the breather is meant to be blocked off when installed, rather than have the bolt removed and the old breather hose fitted? I have a new motor on the way for mine, mine locked up. I also had a battery fault straight out of the crate that I have already changed. I have undone every...

Yeah it is necessary, I am surprised Stark don't have a manual on this because it is a very common thing to do. Especially with the left hand thread, someone will get too keen and strip or break it eventually.

All bikes have a crankcase breather, It has caused issues with many bikes but it's necessary to save your engine seals from blowing out under pressure. I heard some starks had a very short breather that made it easy to get water in. Mine has a long hose that runs up to the top of the subframe...

They were all wet, now they are packed. The bolts and threads were all very dry, some were tight. They are all greased now too.

Update: I drowned the bolt (literally) in wd40 overnight and the right hand side came out fairly easily, the left hand side is actually a sleeve that the bolt screws into from the right, it has to be undone opposite as it is a left hand thread. Bearing is greased now and it is back together.

Has anyone removed the rear linkage bolt that runs through the swingarm? I removed both the end caps, then tried to undo the nut by holding both ends of the bolt with 17mm sockets on extensions, but the resistance to undo it was extremely tight so I left it in. It is the only bearing I haven’t...

That would be fine, I have seen 125's win world enduro titles outright, and MXDN motos against 250's. It's not uncommon to see fastest lap times by 250's over 450's at MX events.